With the Goods and Services Tax (GST) Council not able to land at an agreement on Friday on the Textile segment, the rate declaration has been conceded to June 3. The postponement is naturally because of complexities inside the whole value chain, and expectation for a fiber unbiased tax collection system over the chain.
The challenge
Climate change and drought, food security for a growing population, human rights, biotechnology, ‘fast fashion’, the circular economy - these and other factors and trends are combining to create many long-term risks and opportunities for the cotton industry.
There are excellent initiatives out there that aim to build better resilience for the sector, navigate it through an uncertain future and ensure that it continues to thrive within our planet’s limitations. Change is urgently needed for farmers, the environment and the textile industry to safeguard its long-term viability. However, given the sheer scale and complexity of the challenge, existing efforts aren’t making it happen at the speed and scale that we need.
The Cotton 2040 initiative is a unique cross-industry partnership, including leading brands and retailers, cotton standards, producers and industry initiatives. It aims to maximise and accelerate current sustainability initiatives in the global cotton industry and drive more sustainable cotton firmly into the mainstream. By bringing industry stakeholders together, and aligning efforts in priority areas for action, it seeks to ensure that their collective impact is more than the sum of their parts.
With the support of the C&A Foundation, Forum for the Future began to scope the key issues and crucial levers for change towards a more sustainable cotton industry in February 2015. Through 18 months of research, dialogue and development work with global stakeholders and experts, we developed proposals for four cross-industry areas for action (workstreams) with the potential to create a systemic shift in cotton.
These workstreams will be pre-competitive, action-driven collaborations: bringing together a number of organisations across multiple sectors for collective action.
The first of these, 'Building demand for sustainable cotton', was launched in November 2016 and we are also moving forward with the Traceability workstream.
The four proposed workstreams are:
Building demand for sustainable cotton
Shaping the nature of the demand for sustainable cotton is critical to transforming the system. This workstream is working on enabling an increased demand for sustainable cotton within the fashion and apparel industry, by highlighting the benefits of choosing sustainable cotton and providing resources and guidance on sourcing it.
Cotton recycling and circularity
The recapture and reuse of cotton fibres in textiles has the potential to transform the cotton industry and yield significant sustainability benefits for the sector. This workstream will focus on developing chemical textile-to-textile recycling as a key enabler in circularity.
Traceability
Difficulties with traceability of cotton across the supply chain create significant barriers to uptake. This workstream will initially focus on the establishment of a common traceability interface to make it easier for brands and retailers to purchase sustainable cotton across multiple standards, and simpler for producers to manage data entry. It will also focus on helping brands and suppliers to develop internal data systems to support greater use of sustainable cotton.
The long-term viability of the cotton industry relies on the ability of farmers and farming communities to be resilient in a changing world. This workstream will focus on creating a cross-industry forum to build resilience among smallholder cotton farmers.
The brand aims to fuse fashion with science to develop a crease-resistant wool fiber which will "prevent felting so that the fabric can be machine washable while retaining wool's natural hygroscopic features"
UBM Asia announces today that it has entered the digital textile printing market through the acquisition of “China (Shanghai) International Printing Industry Expo (CSTPF)” from SUNEXPO.
CSTPF was launched in 2009 by SUNEXPO. Over the last six years, it has evolved into an important gathering for the digital textile printing sector and related industry professionals. With the rapid growth in the scale of the exhibition and the growing transaction volume, CSTPF owns the leading market position in this niche in China.
The demand for revolutionary printing technology from the leather, glass, ceramic, carpet and other downstream sectors and the continuous innovation in digital printing technology have made the importation of advanced equipment and technology from abroad and the expansion of the overseas market for printed products the next development targets for the digital textile printing industry in China.
UBM Asia is already the region’s largest trade show organiser and the biggest commercial organiser in China, India and Malaysia. The acquisition of CSTPF launches UBM Asia into yet another new sector of immense potential and will also accelerate CSTPF’s internationalisation.
The UBM Asia and CSTPF teams will work in close collaboration with each other and the industry to build the most influential and authoritative international exhibition in the field of digital textile printing.
Jimé Essink, President & CEO of UBM Asia, said: “We are entering a dynamic new sector through the acquisition of CSTPF. Textile and apparel is one of the largest and most important industries in China. The development of digital printing has accelerated with the drive for innovation and technological transformation in China to upgrade this industry. Today’s fast fashion characterised by small lot and customised printing adds further demand for digital printing. We are very pleased to welcome Gong Changming, General Manager of CSTPF and the CSTPF team to the UBM family and look forward to working closely with this experienced and professional team to grow the expo with UBM’s strong international network.”
Mr Gong will continue to lead the CSTPF staff and the team will move into the UBM China Shanghai office. The next CSTPF will be held at the Shanghai New International Expo Center, China from 14 – 16 April, 2015.
| COTTON YARN HOSIERY CONES : | current week | last week | last Month | Last year |
| 20s (K) | 174 | 174 | 184 | 196 |
| 30s (K) | 195 | 195 | 205 | 217 |
| 40s (K) | 216 | 216 | 226 | 238 |
| 40s (C) | 233 | 233 | 243 | 255 |
| Average | 204.5 | 204.5 | 214.5 | 226.5 |
| Prices of Raw Cotton for the week ending 10/05/2014 | ||||
| Variety | Price (Rs. Per Kg.) during | |||
| Current | Last | Last | Last | |
| Week | Week | Month | Year | |
| 10/05/2014 | 03/05/2014 | 26/04/2014 | 25/05/2013 | |
| MEDIUM (20.5 - 24.5) | ||||
| J-34 (Bikaneri Narma) | 128.46 | 126.45 | 125.78 | 108.12 |
| V-797 | 73.60 | 72.47 | 71.35 | 75.37 |
| JAYADHAR | 88.76 | 87.08 | 87.08 | 85.78 |
| Average | 96.94 | 95.33 | 94.74 | 89.76 |
| LONG (27.5 TO 32 mm) | ||||
| H-4/MECH.1 | 118.54 | 116.57 | 115.73 | 104.06 |
| Shankar-6/shankar-4 | 122.47 | 121.63 | 120.79 | 106.87 |
| Average | 120.51 | 119.10 | 118.26 | 105.47 |
| EXTRA LONG (32.5 & ABOVE) | ||||
| MCU-5 | 123.03 | 121.35 | 120.79 | 108.56 |
| DCH - 32 (SI) | 176.97 | 175.56 | 174.72 | 138.37 |
| Average | 150.00 | 148.46 | 147.76 | 123.47 |
| Wt. Avg Price of Raw Cotton | 113.52 | 112.00 | 111.29 | 100.58 |
| Source : Tecoya Trend, Bombay. | ||||
| Prices of Cotton Yarn for the week ending 10/05/2014 | ||||
| Variety | Price (Rs. Per Kg.) during | |||
| Current | Last | Last | Last | |
| Week | Week | Month | Year | |
| 10/05/2014 | 03/05/2014 | 26/04/2014 | 25/05/2013 | |
| A: COTTON HANK YARN : | ||||
| 20s | 212.00 | 210.00 | 210.00 | 189.00 |
| 30s | 239.00 | 233.00 | 233.00 | 212.00 |
| 40s | 256.00 | 254.00 | 254.00 | 230.00 |
| 60s Card | 307.00 | 298.00 | 298.00 | 273.00 |
| 60s comb | 336.00 | 333.00 | 333.00 | 322.00 |
| 80s comb | 433.00 | 428.00 | 428.00 | 410.00 |
| 100s comb | 489.00 | 486.00 | 486.00 | 472.00 |
| Wt. Avrg | 252.43 | 249.41 | 249.41 | 227.76 |
| B: COTTON CONE YARN : | ||||
| 20s | 171.50 | 168.50 | 164.50 | 177.50 |
| 30s | 203.00 | 200.00 | 196.00 | 198.50 |
| 40s /42s | 216.50 | 213.50 | 209.50 | 213.50 |
| 60s Card | 260.00 | 257.00 | 253.00 | 259.00 |
| 60s / 62s comb | 303.00 | 300.00 | 296.00 | 310.00 |
| Wt. Avrg | 214.27 | 211.27 | 207.27 | 214.99 |
| C: COTTON YARN HOSIERY CONES : | ||||
| 20s (K) | 201.00 | 201.00 | 201.00 | 193.00 |
| 30s (K) | 222.00 | 222.00 | 222.00 | 212.00 |
| 40s (K) | 243.00 | 243.00 | 243.00 | 234.00 |
| 40s (C) | 260.00 | 260.00 | 260.00 | 246.00 |
| Average | 231.50 | 231.50 | 231.50 | 221.25 |
| Source : RO Coimbatore, The prices mentioned above are inclusive of all duties/taxes. ( i.e. inclusive of 4% VAT for Cone yarn, no VAT for hank yarn as applicable in Tamilnadu.) | ||||
Ahead of the Natwest UK Fashion And Textile
Awards 2014 on May 22nd, we've been taking stock
of the amazing things that have happened in the UK
textile industry since the start of the year. And
there's no bad news here...
1. Chanel announced plans to create 100 new
knitwear jobs in Scotland. Think all that Lagerfeld-
dreamed-up magic happens in Paris? Not so much.
The fashion house works with Barrie Knitwear in
Hawick to create its cashmere products. In April,
president of Chanel Bruce Palovsky revealed the
company has plans to expand its business there
over the next three years.
2. Textile manufacturing in the UK is seriously back
in vogue. Businesses who resisted the trend to
produce abroad have reported incredible profits –
prime example? Savile Row's Drake's Of London
made £7m last year - and new labels are following
suit. Hipster brand Bitching And Junkfood quit China
to manufacture from Edmonton, east London, while
the first "made in Britain" stiletto company Yull
Shoes, opened in 2011.
3. Smart textiles AKA the wearable tech business is
booming in the UK. British-made interactive textiles
are now being used by huge brands such as Nike,
Quicksilver, Tommy Hilfiger, Levis and North Face.
4. Companies want textiles made in the UK. Talking
to fashion industry bible Drapers earlier this year
from London's Textile Forum, business manager of
Hainsworth Wool Michael Booth said: More and
more people want the UK made product," he said.
"People have got tired of everything made in
sweatshops, it's about quality now."
5. The UK's first ever fashion and textiles show is
happening. "Meet The Manufacturer" is being
launched by ex-Burberry accessories designer and
Debenhams buyer Kate Hills and set to take place on
June 11th and 12th at the Old Truman Brewery. It's
aim? To "support a revival in UK fashion and textile
manufacturing".
MyDaily is the official media partner of the UK
Fashion And Textile Awards 2014.
The London Textile Fair is set to launch an extra edition for Asian suppliers this October, after KellyKO, the fairs organizers were “completely inundated” with requests from Asian textile manufacturers and mills.
“The London Asia Textile Fair will now be the first fair catering exclusively for manufacturers from the Asian market. With the support of many of the biggest UK textile agents, the fair will undoubtedly be a great success,” commented the fairs' organizers.
Known as the London Asia Textile Fair, the event is set to showcase a number of textile suppliers from China, the Philippines, Korea and Thailand. The fair will be hosted in Shoreditch's town hall in London, from 27 October to 28, 2014.
John Kelley, the fair organizer, revealed that already 35 exhibitors have signed to show and 100 manufacturers are predicted to attend the upcoming edition.
“We kept on getting requests from Asian manufacturers to join the London Textile event but as time scales are different we wanted to keep the Asian and European manufacturers separate,” he commented to Drapers.
'”We have a lot of the big boys in the clothing industry coming, all of the mills that deal with top UK retailers.” The fair will not be as large as its counterpart, the London Textile Fair, and is more selective with its exhibitors.
The Asian Fair is set to occur after the London Textile Fair, which is has over 250 exhibitors and will be held at the Business Design Center, in London on July 16 and 17.
The Japanese are shifting their business from China to other textile producing countries because of [political] tensions between Beijing and Tokyo. Last year, Japan’s textile imports from China dropped to 74pc of its total purchases of $40b, from 86pc a year earlier. China’s loss was the gain of Vietnam and Cambodia
